Seattle Press on Line - Ballard Ave. Goes German

Well, Let Me Tell You...

Ballard Ave. Goes German

By Unknown Writer #4

Jan 11, 2001 -- I love German food. My mouth waters at the mere mention of schnitzel and gravy, German potato salad, and spaetzle. YUM. But alas, Seattle offers few German choices. I suppose that most of us, with our health-conscious Northwest bellies, consider such heavy cuisine an aberration. But not me! I felt a rush of heavenly glee when I saw the menu in the window of the new People's Pub, on Ballard Avenue near NW Market Street. They've got it all.

I stopped in for lunch and ordered a Grilled Bockwurst. My oh my! What I got was a huge plate covered with German potato salad, hearty bread, a salad of wild greens, a pot of stone-ground mustard in the middle and a perfectly flavored, textured and fried white wurst. It was delicious (but please, German potato salad needs to be warm! The flavors don't marry when it's cold).

A week later I went back for dinner. I picked the Paprika Sour Cream Chicken, with peppers and (ooh-ahh) the cherished spaetzle. This too was delectable--the noodles rich and buttery, the chicken tender and juicy and the sauce a miraculous mix of sour cream and paprika. Did I mention the on-tap German beer list? Very impressive. I tried a Staten Pilsner--light and creamy, with just enough afterbite. Yippee! The staff is very pleasant, informal and friendly. This is what's good about The People's Pub.

Payne's picks:

Thursday, January 11 - Barbara Lamb & The Sheepless, Tractor Tavern, 5213 Ballard Ave. NW, (206) 789-3599.

Friday, January 12 - King of Hawaii & The Giraffes (featuring Chris Ballew), Tractor Tavern.

Saturday, January 13 - Cooke & Greene, Bad Albert's Tap & Grill, 5100 Ballard Ave. NW, (206) 782-9623.

Sunday, January 21 - Danny O'Keefe, Tractor Tavern, 5213 Ballard Ave. NW, (206) 789-3599.

Call venues for times and prices.

Clubs: Please e-mail schedules to cpollyc@aol.com or fax to (206) 324-5336.

Their nicely designed web site (www.peoplespub.com) indicates that both owners spent time in Germany. It's clear that their food research was successful, but ... is this what a German pub looks like? It's gloomy, joyless, colorless ... simply put, excruciatingly depressing. Maybe they were going for somber German existentialism?

I know they worked on this space for months, because I saw them. What used to be the kitschy '60s Vasa Sea Grill (the sign's still up outside) now looks as bleak as a bad church basement. The boring beige front room sports a sad mix of ugly brown Formica tables in dire need of some table linen. Since that's your first impression, it's difficult to continue on toward the bar in back--but that's where you'll find one ray of light, a beautiful old wood table that seats about 12 people. It's the only inviting thing in the place, but it looks like it's perennially reserved for staff (I can't blame them), covered with papers, dirty ashtrays and glasses. And don't get me started on the stairway to the cellar. It's scary and gaping, without a door. I get this sinister compulsion to tumble down the stairs to an untimely death. Perhaps a child safety gate would ease this urge?

But the final analysis: Will I return? Absolutely. Like I said, the food is spectacular. Next time, though, I'll leave some paint chips along with my tip.

The People's Pub
5429 Ballard Ave. NW, (206) 783-6521
Open 7 days, 11 a.m. - 2 a.m.
Full menu until 10 p.m., late-night menu until 1:30 a.m.

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